গাওয়া · From the Gawa
The freshwater ponds of the farm. Rui, catla, tilapia raised in working water.
উনুন
Dining · Unun
The menu is written
each morning.
Every dish at Unun begins at the farm gate at 5:30 AM. The farm head and the kitchen read the land together. What is ready comes in. What isn’t stays.
Menu Geography
ভাের · Brackish
The brackish system where mud crab and prawn are drawn when the kitchen needs them.
ক্ষেত · Field
Tomato, aubergine, gourd, leaf. Turned by hand. What is ready today.
ফলবাগান · Grove
Two hundred fruit trees. Mango, jackfruit, guava, custard-apple. Whatever the orchard held.
উনুন · Hearth
Clay pots since morning. Slow onion, rendered fat, whole spice, patience.
আজকের কথা · The Daily Read
Written each morning at the farm gate. Read aloud at the table before the meal begins.
FarmStory Tasting Menu
মাটি ও নদীর গান
The Farm & the River’s Song
Twelve courses · Four acts · Served from 7:30 PM
The menu follows the farm’s morning and the river’s tide. It is not the same menu every evening. The Ilish course appears only when the river offers it.
The Arc of the Meal
The meal begins at the farm’s edge and moves toward the river. It returns to the hearth before it ends.
01
প্রকৃতি
Prakriti
The farm wakes. Three small things from the morning.
02
নদী
Nodi
The river arrives. Seven courses, each a deeper engagement with the water.
03
আগুন
Agun
The hearth responds. What has been in clay since the afternoon.
04
মিষ্টি
Misthi
The sweet close. The orchard, the rice, and the last thing the farm offers.
ACT I
প্রকৃতি
To Begin
Nature's Opening
Three things arrive together. They are the farm's morning compressed into three bites. Nothing here has been cooked at length. Eat them in any order.
BHUMIKA · THREE OPENING BITES
Haas'er Dim Bhapa
Duck egg from the Haas Ghar · mustard and coconut paste inside · steamed in shell · banana leaf seal.
The shell arrives on an earthen dish. You tap it open yourself. The paste was put inside before the egg was sealed and it has been cooking inside the shell the whole time.
Shukto Posto Til
Farm rice cracker · pressed with black sesame · dried shrimp powder · poppy paste.
One bite. The rice is from the farm. The shrimp was dried on the property. The sesame came from the Upper Field last season.
Kancha Aam Noon Morich
Raw mango from the phalbagan · black salt · crushed green peppercorn · nothing else.
A single slice. The acid that opens everything that follows. The mango was on the tree this morning.
ACT II
নদী
The Water Deepens
From the Gawa to the River
Seven courses moving outward from the freshwater pond to the tidal river. The water changes with each course. The fish change with the water.
Chingri aar Nodir Nun
River prawn · cold-poached in tidal water · river salt · lime-leaf oil.
Poached in water drawn from the Matla this morning. Dressed only with salt from the same river and oil pressed from the farm's lime leaves. The simplest course on the menu. It is intended to taste like the river.
Topshe, Kalo Jeera Tel
Mango fish from the tidal river · mustard oil · nigella seed · barely touched.
The topshe is the most delicate river fish in Bengal and one of the least known outside it. Fried lightly in mustard oil with nigella. Three pieces. Nothing else on the plate — anything added would be interference.
SEASONAL · WINTER RUN, OCTOBER THROUGH FEBRUARYParshe, Shorshe Paata
Mullet from the tidal khal · green mustard paste · turmeric · single green chilli · steamed in mustard leaf.
The mustard leaf is the vessel, the seal, and part of the flavour. The packet arrives at the table folded. The guest opens it. The steam that escapes when it opens is the first thing you smell.
Daab Kankra
Mud crab from the Bhaer · steamed in the farm's own coconut water · crab-coral butter · lime-leaf oil · served in the shell.
The crab has been in the Bhaer since the last tide. The coconut came from the Palm Line this morning. They have not met before this moment. The coral butter is the roe emulsified into white butter — it turns the shell gold.
Rui Shorshe
East Gawa rui · stone-mustard paste · nigella · single green chilli whole · hand-pounded rice.
The recipe belongs to the woman who tends the east pond. The chilli goes in whole and does not come out. The rice is pounded by hand in the farm kitchen before service.
Bhekti, Golpata Dhoa
Barramundi from the estuarine river · smoked over burning golpata leaves · skin crisped · stone mustard · farm vegetable achaar.
The golpata that thatched your roof is the golpata that smoked this fish. The same palm serves two purposes on this property. The smoke enters the flesh without overwhelming it — golpata burns cooler than most woods and the fish stays its own thing.
- The River's Offering
Ilish, Shorshe, Kola Pata
Sundarbans Hilsa · stone mustard · turmeric · green chilli · steamed in banana leaf.
The Hilsa migrates from the Bay of Bengal into the tidal rivers to spawn. It is most prized at the moment of transition, when the flesh carries both salt water and fresh simultaneously. This is that fish, at that moment, prepared only with mustard and the leaf of the banana grove. The banana leaf arrives folded at the table. Your host opens it. That is the entire service of this course.
SEASONAL · MONSOON RUN JUNE–SEPTEMBER · WINTER RUN NOVEMBER–JANUARY · WHEN THE ILISH IS NOT IN THE RIVER THIS COURSE DOES NOT APPEAR. WE DO NOT SUBSTITUTE.
ACT III
আগুন
The Hearth Responds
What has been cooking since this afternoon
The farm's land animals. Each has been in clay or over fire since the afternoon. They will not be hurried and have not been.
Haas, Shorshe, Kancha Lanka
Farm duck · slow-cooked three hours in clay · mustard paste · single whole green chilli placed on top to finish in steam.
The duck knows the gawa. It went there this morning. This is the other side of that story. Served with a small portion of hand-pounded rice pressed into a cylinder — the rice to carry the pot liquid, which has become thick and gold.
Murgi, Dhoan, Shorshe, Bori
Free-range hen from the Murgi Bari · older bird · smoked mustard paste · sun-dried lentil dumplings · clay vessel.
An older bird, not a young broiler, because the muscle density and fat of a bird that has ranged the grove for months rewards slow cooking in a way a younger bird cannot. The bori have been drying in the sun since yesterday. They absorb the cooking liquid and become something between dumpling and sauce.
Patha, Maatir Haari
Goat shank and shoulder · sealed clay pot since morning · whole spice · slow onion · rendered fat from yesterday's cooking.
Eight hours in a sealed pot. The pot is brought to the table and opened there. The seal breaks with a sound. What comes out has been building since this morning. With it: a small amount of the phalbagan's most acidic current pickle, to cut through the fat, which needs cutting.
INTERLUDE
নবান্ন
Between the Hearth and the Sweet
The new rice · The return
Maatir Haari'r Bhat
Clay pot rice · sealed since 4 PM · black sesame · dried river shrimp · golpata ash · a few drops of mustard-oil ghee · a tablespoon of begun pora alongside.
The pot has been on the Unun since this afternoon. It comes to the table sealed. After the complexity of everything that preceded it, this course is the farm's most fundamental truth: rice, fire, time. The begun pora alongside is the same straw-charred aubergine from the field, here as a condiment, not a dish. Smoke cutting through smoke.
The rice is not a course in the way the others are courses. It is what the farm is before it becomes everything else. It arrives now so you remember that before you eat the sweet.
ACT IV
মিষ্টি
To Close
The orchard and the delta's sweetness
The last act belongs to the phalbagan and the palm. What the two hundred trees offered today, and what the date palms gave this season.
Phalbagan Thala
Whatever the orchard held at its peak today · nothing added · described each evening when we see what is ready.
In mango season: a single slice of the ripest Langra, cold. In winter: guava with a thread of nolen gur. In the dry months: amla with palm sugar and black salt. The orchard decides this course. We describe it each morning when we walk the trees.
Payesh
Our own hand-pounded rice · village cow milk · cardamom · nothing else · served at near room temperature.
This was ordered for you at the start of the evening. It has been cooking since. Served in an earthen bowl at near room temperature — not chilled, not warm — the way payesh was always served before refrigeration made the question possible. Three spoonfuls is enough. Four is the right number.
Nolen Gur, Kola Pata
Date-palm jaggery · set in banana leaf · crushed ice · fennel seed · served alongside a small earthen cup of gur chai.
The last thing. The jaggery from the farm's own palms, set cold and served on a folded banana leaf over crushed ice. The gur chai alongside — dark tea with palm jaggery, no milk — is the closing drink. It is not available anywhere outside this delta. Drink it slowly.
When the Ilish is not in the river the course does not appear. We wait.
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